The old fashion is more than just a cocktail in Wisconsin. It is a cultural icon, a drink woven into the fabric of the state’s dining traditions. Walk into any Wisconsin supper club and you will notice that nearly every table has a glass of this amber-hued beverage, garnished with fruit and brimming with character. While the old fashion has origins stretching back to the 19th century, Wisconsin gave it a distinctive identity, transforming it into a regional specialty unlike anywhere else in the country.
What sets Wisconsin’s version apart is its unique blend of flavors and the ritual surrounding it. Supper clubs have long been gathering places for families, friends, and communities. The old fashion sits at the heart of that ritual, often ordered before a hearty meal of prime rib or Friday fish fry. This drink is not simply mixed but crafted, often with muddled fruit, a sweet or sour soda, and brandy instead of the bourbon that defines its classic counterpart elsewhere. For Wisconsinites, this variation is a symbol of togetherness and continuity across generations.
The Supper Club Experience
To understand the old fashion’s place in Wisconsin life, one must appreciate the role of the supper club. These establishments, many dating back decades, are more than restaurants. They are communal institutions where people gather for a night that follows a predictable yet comforting rhythm. Guests arrive, settle into cozy surroundings often featuring wood-paneled walls and vintage charm, and order an old fashion as the first course in a multi-hour ritual.
The old fashion signals the start of the evening. It sets the mood while diners socialize, snack on relish trays, and anticipate their entrees. The drink is not consumed quickly. Instead, it is savored slowly, accompanying conversation and laughter. Unlike a bustling urban cocktail lounge, the supper club offers a setting where time feels suspended. In this atmosphere, the old fashion functions not just as a beverage but as an anchor to tradition and hospitality.
Many supper clubs also encourage customization. Patrons may choose their old fashion sweet, sour, or press, depending on whether they prefer lemon-lime soda, sour mix, or a half-and-half blend with soda water. This personal touch enhances the ritual, ensuring that no two old fashions are exactly alike while still retaining the essential Wisconsin character.
Brandy: The Wisconsin Twist
One of the most striking elements of the Wisconsin old fashion is its use of brandy. In most of the country, bourbon is the spirit of choice. However, a post-Prohibition surge in brandy consumption, bolstered by the popularity of California’s Korbel brand at the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair, made Wisconsin an exception. The state quickly adopted brandy as the default spirit for the drink, and that preference continues to this day.
Brandy’s softer, fruitier profile complements the muddled orange, cherry, and sugar cube that form the foundation of the drink. When topped with soda, the result is refreshing and approachable, appealing to both seasoned drinkers and casual sippers. This substitution also reflects the adaptability of Wisconsin culture, where traditions evolve to suit local tastes while preserving their essence. Ordering an old fashion in a Wisconsin supper club nearly always means a brandy old fashion, unless you specify otherwise.
This shift in spirit also underscores the communal appeal of the drink. Brandy’s mellow flavor profile pairs well with hearty supper club fare and allows the cocktail to function as a social lubricant rather than a statement of strength. It is meant to be enjoyed in good company, with an emphasis on comfort rather than intensity.
Ritual, Nostalgia, and Identity
The old fashion’s enduring appeal lies not just in its taste but in the emotions it evokes. For many Wisconsinites, the drink is tied to memories of family dinners, celebrations, and weekly traditions. It is the drink their grandparents ordered, the one their parents perfected, and the one they now pass on to their children. Each glass becomes a bridge across time, connecting generations through shared experiences.
Supper clubs themselves thrive on this sense of nostalgia. Many retain mid-century interiors, offering a glimpse into a bygone era. In that setting, sipping an old fashion feels like participating in a living history. The ritual of muddling fruit, selecting sweet or sour, and waiting for the ice to melt just enough to mellow the flavors provides continuity in a fast-changing world. To outsiders, it may seem quaint or old-fashioned, but to locals, it is an essential part of their cultural identity.
Moreover, the old fashion has become a badge of Wisconsin pride. Travelers often seek it out as part of the authentic supper club experience, and locals delight in introducing visitors to the ritual. The cocktail is not just a drink but a marker of place, a way to say, “This is Wisconsin.”
The Enduring Legacy
Despite changes in dining trends and cocktail culture, the old fashion remains firmly rooted in Wisconsin supper clubs. While mixologists in cities across the country experiment with artisanal variations, Wisconsin’s version holds steady, proud in its consistency. That reliability is part of its charm. Patrons know exactly what to expect, and that predictability is reassuring.
In recent years, however, there has been renewed interest in celebrating the Wisconsin old fashion as a cultural treasure. Festivals, cocktail competitions, and tourism campaigns highlight its role in defining the supper club tradition. Younger generations, drawn by both nostalgia and curiosity, are embracing the drink alongside seasoned patrons. This renewed attention ensures that the old fashion will not fade into obscurity but will continue to evolve while maintaining its roots.
The old fashion also provides a lens through which to understand Wisconsin’s broader cultural values. It emphasizes community, ritual, and enjoyment of the moment. It reflects a preference for comfort and continuity over fleeting trends. And most importantly, it reminds people that dining is not just about sustenance but about connection.
Conclusion
The art of the old fashion in Wisconsin is inseparable from the supper club tradition. It is more than a cocktail. It is a ritual that shapes the dining experience, a tradition that bridges generations, and a symbol of identity for the state. From the muddled fruit to the choice of brandy, every element reflects Wisconsin’s distinctive take on a classic. To sip an old fashion in a supper club is to participate in a legacy of hospitality, community, and timeless enjoyment. As long as supper clubs continue to thrive, the old fashion will remain their steadfast companion, preserving a cherished piece of Wisconsin culture for generations to come.